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here are download link
Dear my friend,
Please read if you have a credit card...
I received a call from a company that said they are representing VISA.
They will ask you are you using any Visa card, from which bank. Then they said they will send you a Service Card, a new promotion from Visa which is TOTALLY FREE. That card include a free one year RM100,000 insurance cover from AIA.
You can enjoy discount from many many of their outlets, then they ask me for the credit card number for verification and they want to make sure my card is still a valid Visa Card. I refuse to give them the card number cos I know that the last 3 digits of our card is actually like our pin number. They keep asking the number and giving me a lots of reason they need to verify my card.
Then I ask that girl who call me their office number 03-22732600. I said that I am busy right now and I'll call her back later. Before the conversation end, she told me again that the service card is totally free for whole live, but we need to pay RM499 for the processing fee, ask me not to misunderstand ...
Just after I hang up the call , I call back to the phone number that she give me, I ask the receptionist "What is your company name?" Then she start asking me why I call? She ask me did I agree with the RM499 fee and when I said No, she said "then you don't need to know our company name!"
It is a SPAM! I already called to my bank to report the incident. Hope that all of you won't get trap in this kind of SPAM.
WARNING... New Credit Card Scam
Note, the callers do not ask for your card number; THEY already have it.
This information is worth reading. By understanding how the VISA & MasterCard Telephone Credit Card Scam works, you'll be better prepared to protect yourself.
What the scammers want is the 3-digit PIN number on the back of the card. Don't give it to them. Instead, tell them you'll call VISA or Master card directly for verification of their conversation.
My husband was called on Wednesday from "VISA", and I was called on Thursday from "MasterCard".
The scam works like this: Person calling says, "This is (name), and I'm calling from the Security and Fraud Department at VISA. My Badge Number is 12460 your card has been flagged for an unusual purchase pattern, and I'm calling to verify. This would be on your VISA card which was issued by (name of bank). Did you purchase an Anti-Telemarketing Device for $497.99 from a Marketing company based in Arizona ?"
When you say "No", the caller continues with, "Then we will be issuing a credit to your account. This is a company we have been watching and the charges range from $297 to $497, just under the $500 purchase patternthat flags most cards. Before your next statement, the cred! it will be sent to (gives you your address), is that correct?"
You say "yes". The caller continues - "I will be starting a Fraud investigation. If you have any questions, you should call the 1- 800 number listed on the back of your card (1-800-VISA) and ask for Security. You will need to refer to this Control Number. The caller then gives you a 6 digit number. "Do you need me to read it again?"
Here's the IMPORTANT part on how the scam works. The caller then says, "I need to verify you are in possession of your card ". He'll ask you to "turn your card over and look for some numbers". There are 7 numbers; the first 4 are part of your card number, the next 3 are the security Numbers' that verify you are the possessor of the card. These are the numbers you sometimes use to make Internet purchases to prove you have the card. The caller will ask you to read the 3 numbers to him.
After you tell the caller the 3 numbers, he'll say, "That! is correct, I just needed to verify that the card has not been lost or stolen, and that you still have your card. Do you have any other questions?" After you say No, the caller then thanks you and states, "Don't hesitate to call back if you do", and hangs up.
You actually say very little, and they never ask for or tell you the card number. But after we were called on Wednesday, we called back within 20 minutes to ask a question. Are we glad we did! The REAL VISA Security Department told us it was a scam and in the last 15 minutes a new purchase of $497.99 was charged to our card. Long story made short - we made a real fraud report and closed the VISA account. VISA is reissuing us a new number. What the scammers want is the 3-digit PIN number on the back of the card. Don't give it to them. Instead, tell them you'll call VISA or Master card directly for verification of their conversation.
The real VISA told us that they will n! ever ask for anything on the card as they already know the information since they issued the card! If you give the scammers your 3 Digit PIN Number, you think you're receiving a credit. However, by the time you get your statement you'll see charges for purchases you didn't make, and by then it's almost to late and/or more difficult to actually file a fraud report.
What makes this more remarkable is that on Thursday, I got a call from a "Jason Richardson of MasterCard" with a word-for-word repeat of the VISA scam. This time I didn't let him finish. I hung up! We filed a Police report, as instructed by VISA. The police said they are taking several of these reports daily! They also urged us to tell everybody we know that this scam is happening.
Please pass this on to all your family and friends! ..
original from here
Now, everyone can sell their space, for FREE!
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By Mark Russinovich
Published: March 21, 2007
Introduction
There are a number of NT disk defraggers on the market, including Winternals Defrag Manager. These tools are useful for performing a general defragmentation of disks, but while most files are defragmented on drives processed by these utilities, some files may not be. In addition, it is difficult to ensure that particular files that are frequently used are defragmented - they may remain fragmented for reasons that are specific to the defragmentation algorithms used by the defragging product that has been applied. Finally, even if all files have been defragmented, subsequent changes to critical files could cause them to become fragmented. Only by running an entire defrag operation can one hope that they might be defragmented again.
Contig is a single-file defragmenter that attempts to make files contiguous on disk. Its perfect for quickly optimizing files that are continuously becoming fragmented, or that you want to ensure are in as few fragments as possible.
Installation and Use
Contig works on NT 4.0 and higher. Contig can be used to defrag an existing file, or to create a new file of a specified size and name, optimizing its placement on disk. Contig uses standard Windows defragmentation APIs so it won't cause disk corruption, even if you terminate it while its running.
To make an existing file contiguous use Contig as follows:
Usage: contig [-v] [-a] [-q] [-s] [filename]
Use the -v switch to have Contig print out information about the file defrag operations that are performed. If you want to simply see how fragmented a file or files have become, use the -a switch to have Contig analyze fragmentation. Use the -s switch to perform a recursive processing of subdirectories when you specify a filename with wildcards. For instance, to defragment all DLLs under c:\winnt you could enter "contig -s c:\winnt\*.dll". The -q switch, which over-rides the -v switch, makes Contig run in "quiet" mode, where the only thing it prints during a defrag run is summary information.
To make a new file that is defragmented upon creation, use Contig like this:
Usage: contig [-v] [-n filename length]
How it Works
Contig uses the native Windows NT defragmentation support that was introduced with NT 4.0 (see my documentation of the defrag APIs for more information). It first scans the disk collecting the locations and sizes of free areas. Then it determines where the file in question is located. Next, Contig decides whether the file can be optimized, based on free areas and the number of fragments the file currently consists of. If the file can be optimized, it is moved into the free spaces of the disk.
More Information
Helen Custer's Inside Windows NT provides a good overview of the Object Manager name space, and Mark's October 1997 Windows NT Magazine column, "Inside the Object Manager", is (of course) an excellent overview.
Download Contig (55 KB)
Nikon Lens Serial Nos link
This page lists every Nikon lens version and sub-version I know of. Minor changes to internal mechanics, lens coating, engravings or electronics may not be listed. For each version up to four serial numbers are given: Start - Earliest - Latest - End. Start and End serial numbers are from Nikon Ai conversion lists, catalogues and various books. The Earliest and Latest serial numbers are from lenses I have seen. They help confirm the Start and End numbers or indicate the range where the Start and End numbers are unknown.
Serial numbers for some versions overlap, and some numbers are beyond the recorded Start or End Number. Batches of serial numbers may have been mixed in the transition from one version to another or my data is incorrect. More research is needed here.
Note: Pictures of pre-Ai versions may be of Ai converted lenses. Versions with the same optical design are grouped together. Different optical variants are separated by a thick line, minor optical updates are separated by a thin dark line. Serial number blocks are separated by a thin pale line.
here is some info
Description
The BR-2A enables you to mount a 52mm front thread lens (eg. Nikkor 50mm lens) in reverse on the Nikon SLR / DSLR or PB-6/5/4. Nikon BR-2A changes your lens into a macro lens with just a fraction of the cost that you need to spend on a macro lens.
Magnification Ratio with different lenses
* Nikkor AF 20mm f2.8 : 3.4X
* Nikkor AF 24mm f2.8 : 2.5X
* Nikkor AF 28mm f2.8 : 2.0X
* Nikkor AF 35mm f2 : 1.4X
* Nikkor AF 50mm f1.4 : 1/1.1X
* Nikkor AF 50mm f1.8 : 1/2X
* Micro Nikkor AF 60mm f2.8 : 1/1.2X
Free Up Disk Space
By freeing disk space, you can improve the performance of your computer. The Disk Cleanup tool helps you free up space on your hard disk. The utility identifies files that you can safely delete, and then enables you to choose whether you want to delete some or all of the identified files.
Use Disk Cleanup to:
• Remove temporary Internet files.
• Remove downloaded program files (such as Microsoft ActiveX controls and Java applets).
• Empty the Recycle Bin.
• Remove Windows temporary files.
• Remove optional Windows components that you don't use.
• Remove installed programs that you no longer use.
Tip: Typically, temporary Internet files take the most amount of space because the browser caches each page you visit for faster access later.
To use Disk Cleanup
1. Click Start, point to All Programs, point to Accessories, point to System Tools, and then click Disk Cleanup. If several drives are available, you might be prompted to specify which drive you want to clean.
2. In the Disk Cleanup for dialog box, scroll through the content of the Files to delete list. Choose the files that you want to delete.
3. Clear the check boxes for files that you don't want to delete, and then click OK.
4. When prompted to confirm that you want to delete the specified files, click Yes.
After a few minutes, the process completes and the Disk Cleanup dialog box closes, leaving your computer cleaner and performing better.
Top of pageTop of page
Speed Up Access to Data
Disk fragmentation slows the overall performance of your system. When files are fragmented, the computer must search the hard disk when the file is opened to piece it back together. The response time can be significantly longer.
Disk Defragmenter is a Windows utility that consolidates fragmented files and folders on your computer's hard disk so that each occupies a single space on the disk. With your files stored neatly end-to-end, without fragmentation, reading and writing to the disk speeds up.
When to Run Disk Defragmenter
In addition to running Disk Defragmenter at regular intervals, optimally monthly, certain events warrant running the utility outside of the monthly rule of thumb.
You should run Disk Defragmenter under the following circumstances:
• You add a large number of files.
• Your free disk space nears 15 percent.
• You install new programs or a new version of Windows.
To use Disk Defragmenter:
1. Click Start, point to All Programs, point to Accessories, point to System Tools, and then click Disk Defragmenter.
Disk Defragmenter dialog box
Click Analyze to start the Disk Defragmenter.
2. In the Disk Defragmenter dialog box, click the drives that you want to defragment, and then click the Analyze button.
After the disk is analyzed, a dialog box appears, letting you know whether you should defragment the analyzed drives.
Tip: You should analyze a volume before defragmenting it to get an estimate of how long the defragmentation process will take.
3. To defragment the selected drive or drives, click the Defragment button.
After the defragmentation is complete, Disk Defragmenter displays the results.
4. To display detailed information about the defragmented disk or partition, click View Report.
5. To close the View Report dialog box, click Close.
6. To close the Disk Defragmenter utility, click the Close button on the title bar of the window.
Top of pageTop of page
Detect and Repair Disk Errors
In addition to running Disk Cleanup and Disk Defragmenter to optimize the performance of your computer, you can check the integrity of the files stored on your hard disk by running the Error Checking utility.
As you use your hard drive, it can develop bad sectors. Bad sectors slow down hard disk performance and sometimes make data writing (such as file saving) difficult, or even impossible. The Error Checking utility scans the hard drive for bad sectors, and scans for file system errors to see whether certain files or folders are misplaced.
If you use your computer daily, you should try to run this utility weekly to help prevent data loss.
To run the Error Checking utility:
Important: Be sure to close all files before running the Error-Checking utility.
1. Click Start, and then click My Computer.
2. In the My Computer window, right-click the hard disk you want to search for bad sectors, and then click Properties.
3. In the Properties dialog box, click the Tools tab.
4. Click the Check Now button.
5. In the Check Disk dialog box, select the Scan for and attempt recovery of bad sectors check box, and then click Start.
Check Disk dialog box
In most circumstances, select Scan for and attempt recovery of bad sectors.
6 If bad sectors are found, choose to fix them.
Tip: Only select the Automatically fix file system errors check box if you think that your disk contains bad sectors.
Protect Your Computer Against Spyware
Spyware collects personal information without letting you know and without asking for permission. The information that spyware collects ranges from a list of Web sites that you visit to usernames and passwords. In addition to privacy concerns, spyware can hamper your computer's performance. Learn more about spyware and how to help protect your computer.
本人用过,安全,放心使用.
要轻松流畅上网你是否注意到你的电脑系统磁盘的可用空间正在一天天在减少呢？是不是像老去的猴王一样动作一天比一天迟缓呢？
没错！在Windows在安装和使用过程中都会产生相当多的垃圾文件，包括临时文件（如：*.tmp、*._mp）日志文件（*.log）、临时帮助文件（*.gid）、磁盘检查文件（*.chk）、临时备份文件（如：*.old、*.bak）以及其他临时文件。特别是如果一段时间不清理IE的临时文件夹 “Temporary Internet Files”，其中的缓存文件有时会占用上百MB的磁盘空间。这些LJ文件不仅仅浪费了宝贵的磁盘空间，严重时还会使系统运行慢如蜗牛。这点相信你肯定忍受不了吧！所以应及时清理系统的LJ文件的淤塞，保持系统的“苗条”身材，轻松流畅上网！朋友来吧，现在就让我们一起来快速清除系统垃圾吧！！下面是步骤很简单就两步！
在电脑屏幕的左下角按“开始→程序→附件→记事本”，把下面的红色文字复制进去，点“另存为”，路径选“桌面”，保存类型为“所有文件”，文件名为“清除系统LJ.bat”就完成了。记住后缀名一定要是.bat，ok！你的垃圾清除器就这样制作成功了！
双击它就能很快地清理垃圾文件，大约一分钟不到。
就是下面的红色文字：
@echo off
echo 正在清除系统垃圾文件，请稍等......
del /f /s /q %systemdrive%\*.tmp
del /f /s /q %systemdrive%\*._mp
del /f /s /q %systemdrive%\*.log
del /f /s /q %systemdrive%\*.gid
del /f /s /q %systemdrive%\*.chk
del /f /s /q %systemdrive%\*.old
del /f /s /q %systemdrive%\recycled\*.*
del /f /s /q %windir%\*.bak
del /f /s /q %windir%\prefetch\*.*
rd /s /q %windir%\temp & md %windir%\temp
del /f /q %userprofile%\cookies\*.*
del /f /q %userprofile%\recent\*.*
del /f /s /q "%userprofile%\Local Settings\Temporary Internet Files\*.*"
del /f /s /q "%userprofile%\Local Settings\Temp\*.*"
del /f /s /q "%userprofile%\recent\*.*"
echo 清除系统LJ完成！
echo. & pause以后只要双击运行该文件，当屏幕提示“清除系统LJ完成！就还你一个“苗条”的系统了！！到时候再看看你的电脑，是不是急速如飞呢？可别忘了回帖喔！
注：LJ就是垃圾的意思！这招比那些所谓的优化大师好用！最重要的是无论在公司默认的系统环境还是在自己家中的电脑都不会破坏系统文件！
第三部分：Capture NX秘笈
一、彩色人像
以portrait.nef为例，具体步骤如下：
1、“相机设置”：
锐化：无
色调补偿：低
色彩模式：I
如果是室内用闪光灯，则加一个：
白平衡：闪光，然后后视情微调。本图用4500K。
2、如需要，调整曝光补偿
3、D-Lighting常常可提高人像照的观感。选择“较好质量”，暗部20，高光1。
4、去红眼，有两个方法：
1）一个是“基本调整”里面的“自动去红眼”：
找到右边编辑步骤里面的“基本调整”—〉“细节调整”—〉“自动红眼校正”，点它左边的小三角。在弹出的对话框里，将“关闭”改为“自动”。搞定。
2）另一个是用“红眼控制点”：
在上方的图标栏里，点一下F5里面的“红眼控制点”。在红眼的中心点一下，然后调整一下大小就可以了。
5、锐化
人像特写的USM锐化，一般用低强度、大半径。可以用35/10/4为基准再微调。本图用35/8/10。
6、增白牙齿
1）注意一下所有的编辑步骤都折叠起来了之后，双击“画笔”图标，选一个较软的画笔，如硬度为10。
2）用画笔涂抹选取牙齿。
3）把编辑步骤的“彩色化”改为“色彩”—〉“LCH”。
4）在弹出的对话框里，点右边第三个图标“添加锚点”。
5）用“眼药水瓶”在一个牙齿上点一下，这就设了个锚点。
6）在对话框中，选择“颜色亮度”，将锚点往上拉一格，使黄色亮一点。调整下面的小三角加大一点宽度。
7）在对话框中，再选择“色度”，将锚点往下拉一格，再加大宽度。
8）在对话框中，选择“主亮度”，将右侧的白点稍左移一点。完成！
7、磨皮去皱
1）新建步骤，选择”对焦”—〉“高斯模糊”。
2）在对话框里，设置半径40，不透明度40%。
3）在编辑步骤中，点击“不透明度”，将“混合模式”设为“变暗”。
4）点选当前的编辑步骤，使其突出显示。
5）用“画笔-”，将不要去皱的部分涂抹选择，如头发、衣饰。
6）点右下的“批处理”图标，“复制设置”。
7）新建步骤，“粘贴设置”。
8）在刚新建的步骤中，设置半径60，不透明度50%。
9）点击“不透明度”，将“混合模式”设为“变亮”。完成！
二、风景
这里调整的目的是要模仿富士“Velvia”胶卷的效果，高饱和度，低动态范围。
1、相机设置
锐化：无
色调补偿：标准
色彩模式：III
2、LCH做Velvia效果
1）新建LCH编辑步骤
2）在“主亮度”中，将黑点输入设为10左右（一般在8-15之间），致使阴影更暗，对比加大。
3）在“色度”中，加两个锚点，一个在红色和橙黄之间，一个在绿色和黄色之间。
4）将两个锚点提高半格，再将整根线上移半格，增加了饱和度。完成！
3、修正天空
1）在天空放一个控制点。
2）在对话框里选“高级”，勾选“显示选区”。
3）调整控制点大小以覆盖整个天空，然后去掉“显示选区”的勾。
4）设置控制点亮度为-30。
5）设置控制点饱和度为+10。完成！
4、锐化
如果细节较多，一般锐化可多一点。USM基准：55/5/4
三、动物
动物照片的处理是上面的人像和风景的混合：低对比、模式III色彩、强锐化。
1、相机设置
锐化：无
色调补偿：低
色彩模式：III
饱和度：标准
白平衡：按照拍摄情况，有时可略加暖200-500K。
2、LCH
和风景照几乎一样，只是“主亮度”中黑点输入可用5而不是10。
3、锐化
用偏大的强度，可突出毛皮等细节。
四、用控制点恢复高光细节
1）打开例图“extreme-hightlights.nef”
2）按照上面的动物照的参数，设置“基本调整”。
3）“曝光补偿”：-0.83。
4）在狗脸上加个控制点，用“显示选区”来协助设定大小后，退出“显示选区”。
5）调整控制点的的亮度和对比。
6）在同一个编辑步骤中加一个控制点在狗右边的草地，调整大小、亮度、对比。
7）复制一个控制点放在狗左边的草地。
8）调整全局亮度和色彩、锐化。完成！
五、特效
1、修正镜头畸变
1）“调整”—〉“校正”—〉“畸变控制”。
2）在横条上，右移修正桶形畸变，左移修正枕形畸变。完成！
2、黑白
1）选择总菜单上的“滤镜”—〉“黑白转换”。
2）在对话框里可调整亮度和对比，还可加彩色滤镜，效果如同拍摄黑白照时加彩色滤镜。橙/黄滤镜使天空变暗，蓝滤镜使天空变亮红色变暗。
3、添加颗粒/杂色
有时候，添加了颗粒效果可以使图片在视觉上更锐利，特别是打印大画幅的时候。还可以用颗粒模仿胶片效果，特别是黑白照。
1）“滤镜”—〉“添加颗粒/杂色”
2）“颗粒颜色”选择“单色”。
3）再选择颗粒类型、强度。
附录：总流程
个人推荐：
1）拍摄完成后，用Camera Bits开发的软件“Photo Mechanic”传输和分类照片。它传输时同时存到两个文件夹以作备份，然后可用它来标记哪些保留、哪些废弃。还可方便地重命名、加主题词或其它IPTC信息。
2）用Capture NX完成主要的调整，调整后的文件可能增加几兆之多，这是因为软件产生了很大的JPEG预览文件。调整后的文件刻盘备份。
3）一般我把调整好的NEF文件输出一个TIFF，然后在Photoshop中打开，如果又作了调整，存为PSD。也就是说，用TIFF作为临时文件，打印后删除。因为Capture NX可以在一个NEF文件中保留不同的调整版本，我就不必为了不同的用途而保存多个TIFF或PSD文件了。
最近，市面上出现了一些“一步到位”的图象处理和管理软件，如苹果的“Aperture”和Adobe Lightroom。这些都可以传输、管理、处理NEF。但很难把Capture NX整合到它们的流程中。
七、降噪和锐化
1、降噪
再说降噪。用高ISO或增加欠曝图片的亮度的时候，噪点最明显。降噪必然损失图片细节，所以降噪会影响锐化二者的作用是相反的。因此，一定要先降噪，再锐化。
很多时候，噪点并不明显，没必要降噪，比如打印8X10的时候，就可跳过降噪这一步。
具体操作：
1）在总菜单里选择“调整”—>“减少干扰”，弹出对话框。
2）对话框里可以选择“快速”或“较好质量”，二者的处理时间相差很大。
3）两根横条，“强度”会使图片模糊，“锐利度”会使图片清晰，二者的效果是相反的。但“锐利度”只作用于综合亮度通道，而“强度”既糊细节又糊色彩。二者的组合，只能不断试验。一般的色彩干扰，用强度10-20都能去除了。
2、锐化
“锐化”是最因图而异的了，没有一个统一的药方。要考虑几个因素：
1）主题。比如美女的皮肤，锐化前要三思！
2）相机的防锯齿滤镜的强度，正是这个滤镜使图片显得“肉”。尼康的高端单反比低端单反更肉一些。
3）图片里的噪点。
4）图片的细节量。
5）图片用途，如打印、网络等。
变数太多，所以我建议把锐化分为两步，第一步是“图象锐化”，第二步是“输出锐化”。换句话说，建议在调整完成后，结合图片的大小和用途，再锐化一次。
比较好用的锐化工具，是“遮色片锐利化调整”，即（USM）。优势在于：
1）可完全调控锐化过程。
2）只作用于亮度通道，不大会产生光晕等色彩问题。
3）是完全可恢复的。
进行锐化前，应将图片的显示大小设置为100%。锐化具体操作：
1）打开一幅图片，在相机设置里面把锐化设置为“无”。
2）在总菜单里选择“调整”—>“对焦”—>“遮色片锐利化调整”，弹出对话框。
3）调整三个横条。最常用的是“50%-5%-4”，在这个基础上再调整强度，直到在高光的边缘刚开始看到一点点光晕。如果没有高对比区域，强度一般不要超过70%。
解释一下：
强度：相当于锐化的“量”、“程度”。
半径：调整锐化的作用“距离”。半径小可锐化细节，半径大锐化整个形状。半径小，一般强度就可以大一点。
临界值：调整锐化效果对于不同色调值的“灵敏度”。比较干净的图片用小临界值（小于4），干扰或噪点多的图片用大一点的临界值。
随书可下载一套锐化的预设文件，针对不同的相机型号。文件包下载到硬盘后，在Capture NX里面点右下角批处理图标，再“选项”—>“添加”，找到文件。注意，在这里如果点“删除”，可能就把设置文件放入回收站了。
常用的USM设置，注意是在相机的锐化设置为“无”（D100为“低”），且不考虑降噪的情况下：
D1h 66/5/4
D1x 66/5/8
D2H(s) 66/5/4
D2X(s) 50/5/4
D100 48/5/8
D200 50/5/4
D80 50/6/4
D70(s) 48/5/8
D50 45/5/4
在降噪之后锐化：
首先要记住，多数亮度噪点在打印时是看不出的，不必太在意一定要降噪。
如果降噪了，为了避免把噪点再锐化回来，建议采用“大半径、低强度”的办法。也就是图片的形状明显了，但不太突出细节。比如：
强度：5%；
半径：50%；
临界值：10
建议强度为10%以下。如果出现光晕，可减小半径。
八、调整编辑步骤
编辑步骤的效果，是依次叠加的，所以它们的次序很重要。
1、在已有的两个编辑步骤之间插入新的编辑步骤。
这其实很简单。比如要在“基本调整”后面插入“级别和曲线”，就先点“基本调整”左边的小三角，把这个步骤展开。然后在总菜单里选择“调整”—>“色阶”—>“级别和曲线”，就可以了。但是别忘了在添加之前，如果别的编辑步骤有对话框开着，一定要关掉。
2、把一个编辑步骤挪到最后。
这稍有点复杂。不过其实就是选中要挪动的编辑步骤，用批处理图标里的“复制设置”，然后“粘贴设置”添加到了最后，然后再把原来的删除。
3、将多个编辑步骤挪到最后。
和上面一样，只不过是用按住“Ctrl”来选中多个编辑步骤而已。
4、把最后一个编辑步骤往前移
就是把在它前面的那些编辑步骤，该往后移的就用上面的办法移到它的后面……
九、最后修改
以下步骤一定要在完成了上面的调整之后最后进行，而且一定要按照下面的次序：
1、拉直
比如，要把地平线放水平，可用上面的图标栏F3里面的拉直工具，沿地平线划条线就行了。
2、剪切
上面的图标栏F3里面有剪切工具，划好范围后双击。
3、调整大小
在总菜单里选择“编辑”—>“大小/分辨率”。
4、颜色配置文件
还是色彩空间的问题。图片都调整好后，一般如果我要把它email出去或用在网上，我把它转成sRGB；否则我用Adobe RGB。转换方法：
在总菜单里选择“调整”—>“颜色配置文件”—>“转换成配置文件”。“方式”用“相对色度”，另外别忘了勾选“使用黑点补偿”。
5、输出锐化：打印
把图片显示大小设置为50%，这样比较象打印效果。
对于光面纸喷墨打印300dpi，作以下调整：
1）“遮色片锐利化调整”（USM），用64/2/4，“亮度通道”的“不透明度”70%。
2）在总菜单里选择“调整”—>“对焦”—>“高反差显示”，半径2，在“不透明度”中将“混合模式”设置为“叠加”，“不透明度”50%。
3）图片似乎过度锐化，但打印正好。
6、保存
先别忘了保存NEF格式文件。
然后另存为TIFF或JPEG。
7、在一个NEF文件里保存不同版本的调整
这极大方便了文件管理，特别是图片需要有不同版本时，如剪切版、网络版等。
调整好一个版本后，点击右下角的旗帜图标，再点“新变更”，可以保存目前的编辑状态。以后可以回来的。这里面还有个“原始设置”，就是去掉所有的编辑步骤回到曝光时的设置。
三、文件浏览器
打开Capture NX，点击左边“文件目录”上的“+”号，可以打开文件目录。点击“浏览器”上的“+”号，就可以显示目录里的内容。
左上角是工具栏。用放大镜可以放大预览图片。也可以用“Ctrl +”和“Ctrl -”来放大和缩小预览图片。
浏览器最上面有几个图标。电击最左边的，可以“查看”——“详细信息”，显示文件详情。第二个图标，可以给每个图片加上“好”、“也许”、“坏”的标签。第三个图标，可以给图片排序。第四个图标，可以在不必打开图片的情况下，“复制”、粘贴设置，或者把一个设置文件运用到一批选中的图片上，很强！
选中几个图片后，还可以右键“比较图像”。
还可以把一组图片成批地转换格式成jpg。这样就可以放心地拍Raw图片了，因为如果拍完之后嫌全部处理太麻烦，或是急着要给别人看，这里就可以一下子“原样”转换成jpg了，就和相机直接拍的jpg一模一样。
第二部分
四、基本调整
基本调整是所有调整的第一步。它实际上就是Capture 4的所有功能的集合。在这里面作的调整，都和Capture 4兼容。但我们之所以不把所有的调整都放在“基本调整”里面，是因为：
1）Capture NX更加先进，处理更快，缓存管理更好。
2）“编辑步骤”就象PS里面的图层，可以控制各步骤的次序，或删除某个步骤。
3）Capture NX比Capture 4增加了功能。
4）Capture NX可以用“编辑步骤”进行局部调整。
建议在“基本调整”中，只使用“相机设置”和“RAW调整”里的一部分，另外就是可能用到的“暗角控制”。除此之外的调整都在单独的“编辑步骤”里进行。另外，前文说的关闭降噪，可以在第一次打开NEF文件的时候进行，这样可节省时间。
1、相机设置
假定相机是按照第二章的推荐设置的，那么调整如下：
1）将“锐化”设置为“无”。相机设为高锐化是为了LCD预览或直接JPG输出。但在Capture NX里调整时，用单独的步骤来锐化则更加可控。另外，应该先降噪再锐化。
2）色调补偿：视情，可尝试几种。一般说，风景照可设置“标准”。
3）色彩模式：D50、D70、D1系列相机不支持在模式2之外使用Adobe RGB空间，但是在这里，就可以Adobe RGB空间的模式1或3。而模式1a和3a则是用sRGB空间。
4）白平衡：选择下拉菜单里的“Capture NX”，则出来对话框，可有两种方式调整：一是“设置色温”，先用预设值再微调。二是“设定灰点”，这需要拍摄时使用了灰卡。
另外，白平衡可以“批处理”。把一张图片的白平衡设置好后，点击选中“基本调整”里面的“白平衡”，再点击“批处理”—>“复制设置”。然后在左边的“浏览器”里选中所有要应用这个色温值的照片，再点击“批处理”—>“粘贴设置”。很强大吧！
5）曝光补偿：这一项在左边归于“相机设置”，在右边却归于“RAW”调整，用起来一样。这一般是恢复高光和暗步细节的第一步。可用“直方图”和“双阈值”来辅助。在软件中，有很多方法可以调整亮度。曝光补偿最适合把直方图整体左右平移，这样可把左边或右边隐没在边界外的部分拉回到坐标内来。一般的做法是曝光时偏重亮部细节，而通过后期处理恢复暗部细节。
6）其它RAW调整：“除尘”仅在相机支持“除尘参照图”时有用。“自动色差校正”默认选中，确实有帮助，可保留。
以上就是建议在“基本调整”里面做的部分。剩下的部分就在单独的“编辑步骤”里面做了。一般总流程：
1、基本调整
2、全局颜色和对比调整
3、局部颜色和对比调整
4、降噪（视情）
5、锐化
6、剪切和调整大小
7、颜色配置
8、输出锐化
9、保存为图象
五、全局调整亮度和色彩
Capture NX的调整工具很多，但最常用只有几个。从本章开始，为了充分体现Capture NX的优势，我们在独立的“编辑步骤”中进行调整。
在Capture NX中，有五个方法来调整色调和对比。在菜单里面的“调整”—>“色阶”里有四个（其中“级别和曲线”是最常用的），还有一个是菜单里面的“调整”—>“色彩”—>“LCH”。LCH很强，可以一步调整对比和色彩。
根据个人习惯，建议先用D-Lighting恢复暗部细节，再用“级别和曲线”设置黑点和白点，最后调整色彩。也有的人习惯只用“LCH”一步搞定，也不错。
1、D-Lighting恢复暗部细节
本节例图为“highlights1.nef”。打开图，将“曝光补偿”设置为-1。
选择菜单里面的“调整”—>“色阶”—>“D-Lighting”。小对话框弹出。选择“较好质量”。
将“暗部调整”设置为25。暗部就亮起来了。
2、级别和曲线
本节例图为“Badlands-landscape.nef”。打开图。我们要做的是设定黑点和白点。
选择菜单里面的“调整”—>“色阶”—>“级别和曲线”。小对话框出现，直方图显示两边都没到头。分别移动左端的黑点和右端白点抵在阴影的两端就可以了。
也可以用“双阈值”来辅助。勾选右下角的“双阈值”，全图变灰。挪动黑点直到图中开始出现黑斑，挪动白点直到图中开始出现白斑。
如果不想手动挪黑点和白点，也可以自动完成。小对话框内右边有一竖溜的图标，第二个就是“自动对比度”。别急着点！按住“Ctrl”再点，这样只调整“本通道”，即综合色阶，不会影响到三个色彩通道。
自动调整所用的参数是可设置的。在总菜单“编辑”—>“首选项”—>“级别和网格”里。建议把“黑色自动对比剪切”设置为0.05%，“白色自动对比剪切”设置为0.01%。别的先别碰。点“确定”然后再在“级别和曲线”小对话框中按住“Ctrl”并点“自动对比度”。
如果对调整不满意，小对话框里右边图标的倒数第二个是“重设所有通道”。
进阶：用曲线调整对比。这和PS里面一样，向上变亮、向下变暗，可以自己体会一下，弄乱了就点“重设所有通道”。
3、色彩调整
选择菜单里面的“调整”—>“色彩”—>“饱和度/暖色”。两根横条，分别左右挪动试试看，直到满意。
一般来说，我们只用第一根横条“饱和度”。因为第二根“暖色”，如果我们在前面“相机调整”里面把白平衡设置好了的话，这里就没啥可调的了。放在这儿是为了有时候调整jpg图片用的。
4、大集成：LCH
LCH的意思是“亮度、色度、色相”。不仅可一步到位，而且功能更强。要是用这个工具的话，可以在做完“基本调整”之后就用。
选择菜单里面的“调整”—>“色彩”—>“LCH”。弹出对话框。
1）首先显示的是“主亮度”。这里的调整和“级别和曲线”里面一样。唯一的不同是，在这里点“自动对比度”时不用按住“Ctrl”，这里的调整不会影响到色彩。
2）然后在下拉菜单里选择“颜色亮度”。出现一个色谱。想把哪个颜色的亮度调高，就按住这个颜色往上拉。如果想使蓝天显得暗一点，就把蓝色往下拉。然后调整下方的黑三角，可以改变这个调整影响的色谱宽度。
3）然后在下拉菜单里选择“色度”，调整不同颜色的饱和度。调整的方法和“颜色亮度”一样。唯一的不同是，在这里你可以把整条线上下移动来调整整体饱和度。
4）一般来说不必调整色相。如果需要的话，在下拉菜单里选择“色相”。这里同样可以上下移动整条线或单个点。底下还可以调色带的倾斜角度。比如60度适于微调，180度适合大范围调。
六、局部调整亮度和色彩
一般来说，经过上面的调整，图片已经不错了。如果还要局部调整，有两种方法：一个是“选择工具”，另一个是“控制点”。
1、“选择工具”。
在前面做全局调整时，你会看到在每一个“编辑步骤”上都标着“所有选定的”。如果用了“选择工具”，这里就会标上“部分选定”。另外，在总菜单里选择“查看”—>“显示选区”，可以看到只有选中的区域显示。
顶上的一排工具栏中，F6那组就是选取工具，包括画笔、套索、渐变、填充。每个都有“+”和“-”两个选择，注意不要选错。双击图标则可以设置工具的选项。选择区域的时候，都会产生一个编辑步骤，默认为“彩色化”，选好之后可改为你需要的编辑项目。
举例一：渐变工具
1）打开图片lake-rocks.nef
2）选择“渐变+”
3）从画面中间开始，向上拉一条四分之一长的线。线的长度决定了“过渡区域”。
4）如果弹出“彩色化”对话框，点“确定”。然后在右边的编辑步骤“彩色化”中，将“彩色化”改为“级别和曲线”。
5）调整级别，以便得到较亮的前景。
举例二、画笔工具
1）打开图片wagon.nef
2）点击“画笔+”，弹出“彩色化”对话框，同时添加了一个“彩色化”编辑步骤，上面标着“无选择”。
3）双击画笔图标，将画笔大小设为100，硬度设为15%。
4）用画笔将图中车门涂成一团橙黄色。这时右边的编辑步骤里显示为“部分选择”。
5）选择主菜单里的“查看”—>“显示选区”，这时全图一片红，只有门是白的，也就表示这快是我们选中的，编辑步骤暂时是默认的“彩色化”。
6）如果要缩小选择的区域，点“画笔-”，然后在选中的区域上可以当橡皮用
举例三、用套索工具圈定选择工具的作用范围
注意：套索工具不会创建一个选区！它是画一个边界，限定其它三个工具只能在边界内起作用。所以套索必须与另一个选择工具一起使用。
1）把以前编辑步骤删除
2）点“套索+”，在图上画个圈，这时产生了一个“无选择”的编辑步骤。
3）这时可用其它工具来选择。比如点“填充+”。
4）如要去掉套索，双击图片上套索外的任意位置。
5）“套索-”是“反选”的意思，就是套住圈外的所有部分。
6）用“套索+”再画个圈，试试看“画笔+”、“渐变+”，只在圈内有效吧！
如果要将同样的选择应用于多个步骤，可以充分利用Capture NX强大的剪贴功能：
1）展开设置好了选择区域的编辑步骤，点击“批处理”里的“复制设置”。折叠起这个编辑步骤。
2）点“批处理”里的“粘贴设置”，复制了一个编辑步骤。选中的部分还在。
3）将步骤的调整项目改为你需要的项目。
2、控制点
Capture NX最得意的地方，就是控制点——U Point，也就是“智能选择”。
1）打开图片badlands-landscape.nef。
2）上方图标栏F5里，有“颜色控制点”图标。点击。
3）在图片里的蓝天点一下，就创造了一个控制点，同时加了一个编辑步骤，一个对话框也弹出来了。
4）控制点上有四条横线，第一条是“大小”，即控制点的势力范围；下面三条，“B”是亮度，“C”是对比度，“S”是饱和度。尝试一下吧。
5）要是想看这个控制点究竟管了哪些地方，点一下对话框里的“高级”，再勾选“显示选区”。图片变黑白，白的是势力范围。挪一下控制点，看看范围的变化。然后去掉“显示选区”的勾选。
6）在对话框的“高级”下面，要是选“全部”，就会发现有一大堆东西可以调，从“色相”到“暖色”。
多个控制点
如果在一个编辑步骤里有多个控制点，那这几个控制点的势力范围是互相制约的。如果控制点在不同的编辑步骤里，它们就是互相独立，互不干涉的。所以，如果想使两个控制点的调整效果叠加，那就要点右下角的“新建步骤”，然后再添加控制点。尝试一下吧！
如果在一个编辑步骤里有多个控制点，而你象看某一个控制点的效果，可以双击该点打开对话框，点击“高级”下面的“显示选区”。
与此不同，如果在总菜单里选择“查看”—>“显示选区”，那显示的是这个编辑步骤里面的所有控制点的范围，加上选择工具所选择的范围。
进阶：颜色选择器
一般来说，控制点的几个参数够调整的了，但如果你想直接选个颜色，那就可用“颜色选择器”。
1）在对话框里，点“高级”，点击下面“颜色选择器”右边的色块。
2）弹除了一个转盘，三角形范围内的小圈圈是控制点目前的颜色。
3）转动转盘，可以调整色相。还可以移动这个小圈圈。
4）还可以用那个“眼药水瓶”，在图片里的任意一点选取颜色。
5）在转盘的左下角，点一下“色板”，就打开了一些预设色彩，就是一些常用颜色。
一、为什么用Raw格式？
Raw格式的图像实际上不是图像，而是一组数据，是光线照在CCD上时，CCD反应所直接产生的“0”和 “1”。这组数据要变为我们可看到的图像，还需要转换成RGB的数值。RGB的数值然后再保存为我们熟悉的JPEG，TIFF或PSD格式。如果把相机设置成输出JPEG图像，实际上就是要求相机来承担电脑工作室的任务来完成这个转换和保存过程。在这个过程中，所有的相机设置都会永久性地铭刻在最终的图像上，如对比度、色彩、白平衡、锐度等。
而用Raw格式输出，则不经过这个转换过程，因此你有机会“重新解释”这组数据。对比度、色彩、白平衡、锐度都是在RGB的阶段才有的。同时，我们对Raw文件的修改，并不改变原始数据，而只是“重新解释”这组数据，因此这组数据可以一再地被以不同方式解释，而不会损失画质。
为什么用Capture？
Raw文件目前还没有统一的格式，这是因为各家相机厂商的传感器设计和图像编码各不相同。有些第三方软件可以解码不同品牌相机的Raw数据。Nikon的Raw文件称为“NEF”，并有相应的处理软件“Capture”。 2006年7月推出的新版“Capture NX”是个革命性的改进，它允许拍摄者在将Raw数据转换为Bitmap图像之前，既能调整全局，又能调整局部。
传统上，Raw转换软件负责提供全局性的调整，然后输出为JPEG或TIFF图像。如果要局部修改，就要再用相应的图像编辑软件。而Capture NX将两步并为一步，大大简化了流程。
对于Nikon相机的使用者而言，Capture软件有明显的优势。首先，它是目前唯一能识别保存在NEF数据中的所有相机设置的转换软件，包括色彩模式、锐度、降噪、影调曲线等。第三方的软件一般只能认出白平衡和影调曲线。当然你不必原样保留这些设置，但是如果你愿意，Capture可以做出和相机直接输出的JPEG一模一样的JPEG图像。
既然我用Raw格式，那为啥还要关心相机的设置呢？
这是因为，相机的设置会保存在Raw数据中，如果设置得好，就能大大简化后期的调整。
反过来看，Capture可以成为一个学习的工具，看看不同的相机设置对图像有什么影响。更好地了解了相机设置之后，在你想拍JPEG的时候，就能得到更好的图像。
二、如何设置相机
1、图像质量
自然是NEF，或“NEF+JPEG”。
2、Raw压缩
Nikon对NEF实际进行了“几乎无损”的压缩，文件大小减了一半。压缩主要是作用在高光区域的色调差异，除非在后期进行极端的色调调整，否则分辨不出画质有何不同。D50和D70对所有NEF都作压缩，但有些型号的相机可以设置为“不压缩”。
3、白平衡
白平衡可能是最重要的相机设置，特别是用JPEG的时候。一般我要么用自动，要么用D2X上的感应器测量。如果是在室内用闪光灯，则设成“闪光灯”。如果要绝对的准确，那就先拍张带18%灰卡的，然后在Capture Nx里面用这张灰卡图片来精确调整白平衡。我的默认设置是“自动-1”，比单纯的“自动”略微暖一点。
4、长时间曝光降噪（NR）
这个设置是在快门关闭之后，再进行第二次曝光，去除“暗流”导致的传感器噪点。在夜间长时间曝光时，可以得到纯黑的天空。缺点是它降低了相机的缓冲能力，曝光时间实际翻了一倍。这个设置是在后期处理时无法改变的（曝光的事可没法无中生有）。我一般设置为“关闭”， 除非是在夜间长时间曝光或作“光画”。
5、高ISO降噪（NR）
用JPEG 时，建议设置为“普通”。如果要用Capture NX作深度去噪，则建议把降噪设置为“关闭”。为啥？首先，Capture NX或专用降噪软件可以有更大的操控性。其次，在显示图片时，降噪很耗电脑资源。把降噪关了，Capture NX在打开文件时就不必应用降噪设置，从而使性能大大提高。有些相机型号不允许把降噪关掉，这也没问题，你可以在Capture NX里面把它关掉。
6、图像锐化
D50的锐化默认值最强悍，专业的型号则保收得多。锐化是我对每个图像要作分别调整的一个参数，取决于大小和最终用途（打印或网络）。我一般把相机内的”锐化“设置为“高（+2）”，这样在LCD上有足够锐利的预览图像来判断锐利度，而且JPEG文件也可以基本够锐利。
7、色调补偿
这是调对比度的。对于JPEG，这很关键。太强的对比度会使高光和暗部没了细节。我一般设置为“低”，毕竟时候加对比度很方便，而要恢复细节就很难了。低对比对对于野生动物摄影也很有用，可以尽可能多地捕捉暗部的细节。对于Raw，我一般保留“低”设置，但在拍风景或其它我想加对比度的时候改为“正常”。我一般不用“自动”，因为不知道它是怎么动的。
8、色彩空间
有些相机型号可以在“色彩模式”之外独立设置“色彩空间”。有两个选项，sRGB或Adobe RGB (1998)。我一般用Adobe RGB，应为其色彩空间比sRGB更广，很适合喷墨打印。相机里没这项也没关系，Capture NX里面都可以改的。
9、色彩模式
Nikon 提供三种色彩模式，分别为I、II、III。模式II是最“中性”、“自然”的。只有在Adobe RGB色彩空间才能用。如果相机没有独立的色彩空间设置，你选了模式II也就把色彩空间设为Adobe RGB了。在D2X上，模式I和III在两种色彩空间里都可以用，但是在有些相机上，设置这两种模式就把色彩空间设为sRGB了。模式I增强了除肤色系列色（特别是红色）之外的饱和度，可以鲜艳的图片又使肤色显得自然。模式III增强了饱和度，特别是红色和绿色。同时还略微改变了红色和绿色的色调，显得更生动。熟悉富士Velvia胶卷的会喜欢模式III的。
那究竟应该选哪个呢？主要取决于拍摄内容。我一般的默认设置是模式II和 Adobe RGB。但是在拍野生动物或风景时，我喜欢模式III。如果用Raw拍摄，只打算用一种设置时，我会选模式II和Adobe RGB，在Capture NX里面可以很方便地转换为模式I和III。
10、色相调整
这是用来改变相机对颜色的“感受”。这项我从来不用，因为它影响到图中的所有颜色。设置为0。
把这些都设置好，我们就要开始用Capture NX啦。
Apple may have whipped up the hype last night, but in the camera world the big announcement was being made in Italy by Sony. The company has finally announced the launch of a new digital SLR. The Alpha 700 packs 12.2 megapixels and uses a CMOS sensor. The LCD screen is a whopping 76mm (3 inches) and boasts a 920,600-pixel resolution, the highest on a dSLR. Interestingly, Sony has chosen not to include the live view feature that's appearing on entry-level dSLRs such as the Nikon D40 or the Olympus E-410.
The Alpha 700 is made from magnesium alloy over a reinforced aluminium alloy chassis, with weather-resistant silicon seals. Under the bonnet there's a high-speed BIONZ processor that captures raw footage. Noise reduction is available on raw footage to cut noise before the image is compressed and encoded. Sensitivity goes up to ISO 3,200, and there's a bracketing mode to capture a scene at three different dynamic range settings.
There's 11 focus points for the autofocus sytem, which is activated by a sensor on the hand grip. Menus are navigated with a new 'Quick Navi' interface. Once you've customised any of the 28 settings, you can save them to one of three user memories, or remember 15 frequently used items to be accessed with the handy 'function' button.
In burst mode, the Alpha 700 captures 5 frames per second thanks to a double-stopper anti-bounce mirror mechanism. We don't know what that is, but it sounds like fun. Sony claims the new M-series InfoLithium battery pack will pump out 650 shots per charge. Pictures are stored to CompactFlash or Sony's proprietary Memory Stick PRO-HG format.
If you want to display your pictures on an HD television, the Alpha 700 has an HDMI output and can capture images at 1,920x1080-pixel (1080i) resolution. You get an infrared remote control in the box to use as a wireless shutter release or view the images on a television. UK pricing and availability is yet to be confirmed, but we'll get you a review as soon as ever we can. -Rich Trenholm
By Scott Marshall
STAFF WRITER
Article Launched: 09/06/2007 05:26:51 PM PDT
East Bay air quality improved this afternoon, and a sea breeze tonight will begin to flush smoke from wildfires eastward, authorities said.
Still, the haze will hang around Friday to some extent.
"Smoke shouldn't be as bad" Friday, said Steve Anderson, a National Weather Service meteorologist. "It'll still be hazy."
The haze in the East Bay is smoke from the Moonlight fire in Plumas County, which grew to 28,000 acres today and is only 8 percent contained.
That smoke funneled into the East Bay and the Central Valley on Wednesday through the Feather River Canyon, almost as if it were being sucked into the region by a straw.
Satellite imagery showed a freight train of smoke flowing southwest away from the fire. The wind normally blows the other direction. Smoke from the Lick fire in Henry W. Coe State Park south of San Jose did not affect Contra Costa County. That fire grew to 19,000 acres Thursday.
The Plumas County smoke was so pervasive that some Bay Area residents reported finding ash on their cars today.
So even as the air improves, the Bay Area Air Quality District still advised caution this afternoon, particularly for the elderly, people with cardiopulmonary disease or even people who just have a scratchy throat, said Karen Schkolnick, an air district spokeswoman.
"Although air quality over the 24-hour period was healthy throughout region, there are going to be periods of time, if winds change, when particulates will affect population,"
Schkolnick said.
The quality standard is an average of 35 micrograms of particulates per cubic meter of air. The values Thursday in Livermore ranged from 23 to 37, with an average of 28, higher than Wednesday but still within the acceptable range.
The sea breeze that will benefit the East Bay could mean trouble for the San Joaquin Valley, which already was invaded with its own share of smoke from the Moonlight fire. Now the sea breeze could blow Lick fire spoke eastward.
Tracy and Manteca officials are in a quandary about whether to play high school football games Friday night. They have been warned by San Joaquin Air District officials that they should not due to smoke from the Moonlight fire.
Reach Scott Marshall at 925-945-4782 or smarshall@bayareanewsgroup.com.
By Nick Louth
September 06 2007
Becoming a billionaire seems like an impossible dream. A very few people manage it, though. Most do it through business, as Bill Gates did, some inherit the money as the heirs to Sam Walton’s Wal-Mart fortune have done, and a very few do it through investment.
Of these, Warren Buffett is the best known. He came from an undistinguished background and wasn’t moneyed, but by April this year his personal fortune was estimated at $52 billionn by Forbes magazine. This makes him the third richest person in the world.
His investment record is quite astonishing. If you had put $10,000 in his first investing partnership in 1956, and then switched with him to being a shareholder in his company Berkshire Hathaway you would by 1986 have turned it into $5 million. With reinvested dividends it would be worth much more today.
How did he do it? Well, here are 10 strategies that Buffett uses to make money.
1. Invest in value
Warren Buffett always looks to get $1 for 75 cents. That is true whether the business is as boring as shoes or furniture manufacture, or as complex as insurance. He has invested in all these.
He works by analysing a company’s accounts in the manner recommended by Ben Graham, the father of investment analysis. If a company was sitting on property worth $100 million, had cash of $50 million and other assets saleable at $50 million, but was only valued by the market at $175 million, then that firm would be worth a closer look.
How much can you make from £100,000? Play our fantasy sharetrading game
2. Look for the business franchise
Businesses that work really well over the long-term don’t just build a better mousetrap, they own the patent. A unique asset, like a 100-year title to a rich mineral coal seam close to a steel mill, an airport site by a big city, or a powerful brand like Coca-Cola are all enduring franchises. These companies don’t need to fight on price to get business. They have an unfair advantage.
The opposite of franchises are commodity businesses. There are millions of them, and what they all have in common is that they have to trade on price because they face effective competition.
3. Buy good businesses
This sounds obvious, but isn’t. By Buffett’s yardstick, a good business is one with a high real return on invested capital, rather than with good headline earnings growth. Those returns should be measurable in cash terms. Dividends are a good indicator that cash is available.
4. Avoid businesses run for the short-term
Too many firms have managers who think short-term and act that way. Buffett hates businesses where boardroom insiders sold into temporary market strength or expanded the company through over-priced acquisitions.
5. Patience is a virtue
Having the patience to wait for incredible bargains is a discipline Buffett has used time and again. Market mis-pricing comes around with regularity. Professional fund managers are often under too much pressure to act to be appearing to do nothing, but the small investor can wait without anyone looking over his or her shoulder.
My guess is that Warren Buffett would be keeping a keen eye on how incredibly cheap some British banks have become in the recent market falls.
6. Buying businesses with free cash
Buffett has many times bought into companies that have a huge amount of under-used cash sitting on the balance sheet and then used that to purchase other firms.
In John Train’s book on Buffett, The Midas Touch, he describes how Buffett bought the firm Blue Chips Stamps in 1968 and used the stock of stamps sitting on the balance sheet to turn into cash which he then used to Buy See’s Candies and the Buffalo Evening News. These last two buys came at no capital cost to Buffett himself.
7. Keep it simple and straight forward
Buffett avoids meetings, has no acquisitions department and has a modest personal staff. He doesn’t subscribe to investment fashions, or jargon-laden approaches. For Warren Buffett, investment doesn’t have to be dressed up to work. It makes money in its shirtsleeves.
8. Keep cutting those costs
Cost-cutting and an almost skinflint approach to overheads mark Warren Buffett out from others. This is reflected in his personal life. He still lives in the same modest house he bought in 1958 for $31,000, and drives a very ordinary car.
His own salary is only $100,000 a year, which is about a tenth what the typical chief executive of a similar-sized firm might be paid.
9. Understand the figures
Thinking like an accountant is a pre-requisite for investing like Warren Buffett. He can really get to grips with a corporate engine room, and home in on the machinery which is vital to the generation of profits. Only by doing so can you understand the difference between so-so companies, good ones and great ones.
10. Make money while you sleep
Buffett works hard, but he’s not a workaholic. Having used simple ground rules to ensure that he knows he’s only taking a low level of risk and will be in for the long-term, he’s an investor who can sleep soundly and ignore the panicky movements of the markets.
http://big5.cnool.net/gate/big5/ ... atch_news.asp?id=36
作者：何永翔 來源：《人民攝影》
1、用廣角鏡頭拍出的相片四角發黑
主要是由於閃光燈覆蓋面與廣角鏡頭的視場角不匹配。老式閃光燈設計的閃光覆蓋面大都只能與35mm的小廣角鏡頭配套，28mm廣角鏡頭的視場角比35mm 鏡頭大12度，因此使畫面四周受不到光而發黑。防止的辦法有二條，一是在燈光上加散光罩，使閃光成為散射光，以擴大覆蓋面；二是用白紗布蒙住燈頭，讓光線散射，使整個畫面都能均勻受光。
2、 畫面影調模糊
在排除了相機無故障和手震等原因後，就要檢查鏡頭是否被灰塵覆蓋或被污漬染塗。如遇到這種情況，切忌用嘴吹或毛巾擦。應用吹氣球吹去鏡頭上的塵土，再用鏡頭刷拂去雜物，最後用鏡頭紙擦拭，使鏡片明亮如新。如仍有汗漬、指紋和油垢，就要送相機維修店用鏡頭清潔液仔細清除。
3、 主體人物模糊，背景清晰可辨
有兩種可能，一是手動對焦相機對焦時，焦點沒有對著主體或是主體對焦後，在構圖中又移動了位置，未重新對焦，使主體不在景深範圍之內；二是使用自動對焦相機時，沒有按快門「鎖定」焦點再重新構圖，使焦點在構圖中向別處飄移。
4、 團體合影相片前幾排清晰，後幾排模糊
凡是多排合影照，要保證每個人影像清楚，就要做到三點：一是選擇性對焦。五排人合影，選擇第二排的對焦；七排人合影，選擇第三排人對焦。二是光圈不要設定太大，一般以f4－8為宜，以保證有足夠的景深。三是快門速度不要低於1/60秒，以免有人頭部轉動使影像發虛。
5、 菲林沒有曝光
主要原因有二：一是傍軸取景相機拍攝時忘記揭鏡頭蓋，取景器中景物清晰，但成像光線沒有進入鏡頭，菲林沒有感光。二是手動卷片的135單反相機裝片不到位，卷片時沒有注意看暗盒片軸是否在相應轉動。由於片頭滑脫，搬動卷片把手時，雖然快門上了弦，計數器照常計數，但菲林在暗盒中紋絲未動，計數器雖顯示 36張拍完，實際上沒有一張菲林感光。
6、相片四角有黑影
主要原因有二：一是遮光罩與鏡頭焦距不匹配。把50mm標準鏡頭的遮光罩用於28mm焦距的廣角鏡頭就會阻擋進入鏡頭的光線。因標頭的視場角為47度，而 28mm廣角鏡頭的視場角為75度。二是用28mm廣角鏡頭拍攝時，原已在鏡頭上戴有一塊UV鏡，如再戴一塊偏光鏡的話，由於偏光鏡是兩片玻璃疊合而成，邊框很厚，再加在UV鏡的邊框，必然遮擋進入鏡頭的光線，使相片四角發黑。用廣角鏡拍攝時如需用偏光鏡，一定要先卸下UV鏡後再裝偏光鏡，才能使畫面均勻受光。
7、 影調死白或晦黑，缺乏影紋層次
無論相片是黑白或是彩色，只有曝光準確，才能獲得明快的影調和豐富的層次。相片死白是曝光過度；相片晦黑是曝光不足。機內測光系統是按18％的中灰反光率設計的，它可以使大多數景物曝光準確，色彩還原，但遇到某些特殊光線或景物，就需要在測光的基礎上進行修正。如拍攝雪景如不增加1.5－2級曝光量，白雪就會成為灰白色；如拍攝煤炭，如不減少1.5－2級的曝光量，黑色煤炭就會變成深灰色。因為無論多麼高級的相機，也沒有思維功能，只會把一切景物千篇一律地按反光率為18％的中灰色調處理。
8、 用電子閃光燈攝的相片仍然曝光不足
原因有二：一是光圈設定過小。閃光燈的閃光速度一般都在1/1000秒以上，快門已失去控光作用，主要*光圈大小控制曝光量。沒有自動檔的閃光燈拍照，要先計算光圈係數。二是閃光燈電力不足。新買的閃光燈要經過十餘次的充、放電，讓燈內電容活躍後再正式使用。舊閃光燈充電信號燈點燃只充了70％，在點燃10秒鐘後才能真正充滿電能，供正常使用。
9、單反相機用閃光燈拍出的相片，有半幅畫面是黑影
這是由於單反相機的簾幕快門與閃光燈不同步所致。單反相機用閃光燈拍照，要注意相機的閃光同步（各相機速度不同）。
10、 人像相片背景清晰艷麗，人物臉膛昏黑
一是逆光拍攝時使用了平均測光，又沒有對人物面部補光；二是背景明亮（雪景、沙漠、海灘），使用了內測光推薦的數據進行曝光，背景曝光適度，人物曝光不足。對此有三種辦法解決：一是用閃光燈對人物進行補光；二是在測光的基礎上加大1－2級曝光量；三是走近人物對準臉部測光，「鎖定」曝光量後（用測光記憶鈕或改為手動曝光），再退回原位構圖，對焦，拍攝。
11、 團體合影，周邊人物殘缺
這有兩種情況，一是用平視取景相機拍攝時忽略了視差，畫面裝得過滿；二是使用單反相機雖無視差，但畫面四周沒留餘地，擴印時四周壓掉了一些畫面，彩擴機只擴印出底片畫面的95％左右。所以無論使用什麼相機，構圖時都要留有一定的餘地。切忌人物頂天立地，塞滿畫面。
12、 相片有劃痕
如果是底片上有劃痕，可能是兩種情況造成的。一是大盤片分裝卷使用的舊暗盒被污染，出片口絨布上夾有砂粒，劃傷了菲林；二是相機背後的壓片板上有毛刺，卷片劃傷了菲林。使用分裝卷前，最好把片頭縮進暗盒，用吹氣球和毛刷仔細對出片口的絨布進行清潔處理後，再引出片頭使用。如相機壓片板有毛刺，可用一小塊0 號砂紙小心地磨掉（注意不要磨傷壓板上的漆膜）。
13、 整幅相片影調偏藍
一是色溫很高造成的。陰天或薄雲蔽日的天氣，自然光色溫高達7000－12000K，沒有使用校色溫濾鏡；二是四周有茂密的林蔭或巨幅藍色廣告、幕牆等環境反射光的影響。解決辦法是在拍攝時，使用一塊雷登85B降色溫濾鏡，如附近有藍色環境光反射，盡可能移往開闊場地拍攝。
14、 整幅相片影調偏橙紅
以下3種情況都可能使相片影調偏紅。（1）日光型彩色菲林在燈光下使用，又沒有使用雷登80B色溫轉換型濾鏡；（2）早晚陽光的色溫只有3200K，低色溫造成橙紅色調；（3）周圍有巨幅紅色廣告或紅色建築物，反射紅色光。
15、 用閃光燈拍攝人像時，背後投影濃重
機位閃光拍攝，如人物離背景很近，就會有黑色投影映在背景上。解決辦法有三：一是人物離背景遠一些，讓投影落於地面；二是拆下閃光燈用軟線連接進行側位閃光拍攝；三是利用淺色的天花板或牆壁進行反射閃光拍攝。
16、 使用閃光燈，人像眼球血紅
紅眼現象在弱光中進行機位閃光容易出現。原因是黑暗光線下，人眼瞳孔放大，閃光燈的強光突然照射，瞳孔來不及收縮，強光直射視網膜，視覺神經的血紅色就會出現在相片上形成「紅眼」。克服的辦法有四：一是拆下閃光燈用軟線連接進行側位閃光；二是讓被攝者目光不要直視照相機鏡頭；三是拍攝前讓被攝者注視電燈、窗口等強光源三分鐘或預閃一次再拍；四是使用有防紅眼功能的閃光燈。
17、 拍攝的電視畫面上有快門條紋
我國電視系統每秒傳送25幅畫面，如果快門速度高於1/30秒，就會出現快門條紋。普通相機拍攝電視畫面，快門以1/15秒為宜。
18、雪景影調灰暗，白雪不白
這是由於曝光不足造成的。雪天地面反光很強，測光表仍按18％反光率設定曝光組合，會把雪景還原成中灰調。如按平均測光或偏中央重點測光曝光，就欠曝1－ 2級，白雪就成為淺灰色調 。防止辦法是，按測光讀數增加1－2級曝光量（開大1－2檔光圈或降低1－2檔快門速度）進行補償。
